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IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph
IWC Schaffhausen has introduced a new and significant watch in its esteemed Portugieser collection – the Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph IW394009. This watch combines three major horological complications in one, with an exquisite design that epitomizes the brand’s craftsmanship. Made of proprietary precious metals and featuring an extremely complex dial, this watch represents the modern pinnacle of a collection that traces its roots back to the 1930s, presenting a mechanical feast for discerning watch enthusiasts. It is more than just a combination of functions, it is a carefully designed watch that strikes a balance between high complexity and functional readability.
The history of the International Watch Company began in 1868, when an American watchmaker and engineer, Florentine Ariosto Jones, arrived in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. His vision was to combine American industrial manufacturing techniques with the renowned craftsmanship of Swiss watchmakers. This unique “engineering first” philosophy has been present throughout IWC’s more than 150 years of development, and it is renowned for its rugged, reliable, and fully functional instrument watches. The brand is known for its exquisite complications, especially chronographs and calendar watches, which are ingeniously designed and easy to operate.
The Portugieser series occupies a special place in IWC’s iconic collections. Its origins can be traced back to the late 1930s, when two Portuguese businessmen asked for a watch comparable to a marine astronomical clock. To meet this demand, IWC put a large and precise pocket watch movement into a wristwatch case, creating a watch that was considered oversized at the time. This concept laid the foundation for the iconic aesthetic of the series: a wide case, a simple and transparent dial, Arabic numerals and a simple “railroad track” minute circle. These design elements, which originated from the pursuit of excellent legibility at sea, have been the iconic features of the series for more than 80 years and also laid the framework for this new high-complication watch. IW394009
The watch has a case diameter of 43.5 mm and a large, confident look. The watch is made of 18K Armor Gold® alloy developed by IWC. It is not ordinary gold, but a modified microstructure that makes it significantly harder and more wear-resistant than traditional gold alloys. This choice highlights IWC's emphasis on material science and durability. The case structure with a polished bezel and satin-finished sides envelops the exquisite dial, while the classic plunger chronograph pushers and sturdy crown retain the practical instrument characteristics of the Portuguese series.
The case is 15.9 mm thick, which is undeniably thick enough to accommodate the complex mechanism inside. However, the carefully sculpted lug design curves downward, making the watch wear more securely and comfortably on the wrist than its size suggests. The watch is paired with a black alligator leather strap carefully crafted by famous Italian leather craftsmen Santoni. The texture of the strap is a tactile detail that complements the visual and mechanical beauty of the watch. The strap is secured with an 18K Armor Gold® folding clasp, ensuring material continuity and a secure fit.
The iconic heart of this watch lies in its obsidian-colored dial. This is no simple black coating, but rather the result of around 60 complex processes. The most striking of these is the application of 15 layers of transparent lacquer, which are carefully sanded and polished. This process gives the dial an extraordinary sense of optical depth, giving it an almost three-dimensional, liquid texture under direct light. The deep, dark dial provides a dramatic backdrop for the other elements.
The dial is adorned with gold-plated hands and solid gold applied Arabic numerals, classic hallmarks of the Portuguese collection. The warm gold contrasts with the obsidian black, ensuring excellent legibility. Despite the high density of information, the layout is well balanced. The main time is indicated by the central leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, while the three advanced complications are arranged logically and orderly on the dial, each occupying an independent visual space without appearing chaotic.
A highlight of the watch is the flying minute tourbillon, which is prominently displayed in a large window at 6 o'clock. A visual feast for the eyes, the tourbillon is an invention designed to counteract the effects of gravity on the escapement in different positions. Here, it is a "flying" tourbillon, which means that it is supported only from below, allowing an unobstructed view of the rotating cage. This ingenious cage completes one rotation every 60 seconds, consists of 56 individual parts and weighs only 0.675 grams.
IWC has equipped this tourbillon with a stop-seconds device, also known as a tourbillon stop. This practical feature completely stops the entire mechanism, including the balance wheel in the cage, when the crown is pulled out. This allows the wearer to set the time with precision to the second, a functional advantage not often seen in watches equipped with a tourbillon.
Modern materials further enhance the performance of the movement. The pallet fork and escape wheel, two key components of the escapement, are made of silicone. This material is light, anti-magnetic and requires no lubrication. IWC has gone a step further and applied its proprietary Diamond Shell® coating technology to these components. This special coating significantly reduces friction and improves the overall efficiency of the movement's energy flow, ensuring that the watch has a strong power reserve.
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A retrograde date display is located at 9 o'clock. Instead of a hand making a full circle or a number displayed in a window, a retrograde indicator moves along an arc-shaped scale. On the IW394009 watch, a small hand points to the date scale from the 1st to the 31st. At the end of the last day of the month, the hand instantly jumps back to the 1st and starts its journey again. This complication provides a dynamic and fascinating way to track the date, while the monthly flyback function creates a mechanical drama.
The third major complication is the flyback chronograph, whose control button is located on the right side of the case. The chronograph function is displayed in an intuitive totalizer at 12 o'clock. This subdial integrates the recorded hours and minutes, making them as clear and easy to read as a second time zone. This layout is more user-friendly than separate hour and minute subdials, which can sometimes be difficult to read at a glance.
The “flyback” function further enhances practicality. While a standard chronograph must be stopped, reset, and then restarted to time consecutive events, the flyback chronograph simplifies this process to a single press of the reset button. By pressing this button while the chronograph is running, the hands instantly return to zero and restart timing, making it ideal for measuring consecutive time intervals without interruption.
Driving this complex movement is the IWC-manufactured 89900 calibre. This highly sophisticated automatic movement consists of 375 individual parts and is equipped with 42 jewels. Its modern frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) ensures its precision. Despite the high energy demands of the tourbillon and chronograph, the movement still offers a robust power reserve of 68 hours when fully wound.
Through the transparent sapphire crystal case back, the view of the watch is as breathtaking as the dial. The movement is extensively decorated with traditional finishing techniques, including Côtes de Genève and circular graining on the bridges and main plate. The most eye-catching part is the oscillating weight, which is responsible for the automatic winding. It is made of solid 18K 5N gold and is partially hollowed out, so that the delicate structure underneath can be clearly seen as the movement rotates.
This watch is the crowning touch of the new Portugieser collection. In 2024, IWC Schaffhausen introduces a series of new iconic colors designed to evoke the memory of the change of day and night, including Horizon Blue, Dune Blue and Silver Moon Blue. The obsidian color of this watch perfectly matches this theme, symbolizing the depth of the night and providing a vivid and beautiful picture for the shining gold and mechanical elements.
This watch embodies IWC Schaffhausen's advanced watchmaking philosophy centered on engineering technology. The integration of a tourbillon, retrograde date and flyback chronograph in one automatic movement is a major technical achievement. The use of advanced materials such as Armor Gold® and diamond-coated silicone components demonstrates IWC's commitment to pushing the boundaries of durability and performance, even in precious metal grand complications. For fans interested in owning this watch, quantities are limited. The IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph Ref. IW394009 is limited to 100 pieces worldwide. This exclusivity, combined with its complex mechanical structure and advanced materials, makes it a standout among the brand's products. The official retail price is $145,000, reflecting its status as a masterpiece of fine watchmaking from the Schaffhausen watchmaker.
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